One of my first food experiences for this Philippines visit was unfortunately not a good one.
My family and I participated in the 5th Annual Ambassadors, Consuls General, and Tourism Directors Tour of the Philippines. In a nutshell, about 410 Filipinos from the US, Canada, and Guam took part in this tour hosted by the Philippine Department of Tourism, Department of Foreign Affairs, and Department of Trade and Industry. It was a great time, but our first dinner was not so great. I hate to bash, but there’s a point to make for all this.
We arrived early with other NY participants, and were brought to Travel Cafe Philippines in Greenbelt 5, a shopping area in Manila. We were informed about the menu beforehand, and I was definitely excited for it:
Mackerel Ceviche – Raw fresh mackerel marinated in vinegar and spices
Travel Cafe Spicy Fried Lumpia – Deep fried spring rolls with spicy glass noodles vegetables, and shrimp
Cream of Clam Soup – cream of clam infused with ginger served in pan de sal bread bowl
Shrimp Pomelo Salad – fresh shrimp and pomelo with fish sauce and calamansi dressing
Sarangani Classic – pan-fried milkfish belly from Sarangani province, served with garlic rice, pickled papayas, and tomato slices
Filipino Triolet – leche flan topped with macapuno (coconut), turon (deep fried banana and jackfruit spring roll), and suman (sticky rice dessert)
Mango Iced Tea
Cordillera Mountain Coffee
How can you not be excited for that? I thought this was going to be an explosion of flavors! Unfortunately, each course was disappointment after disappointment. I know I’m not a professional chef, but you don’t need to be one to know what tastes good and what doesn’t. I’ve also grown up with Filipino food and Filipino food products, so I don’t think I’m being completely out of line.
The Mango Iced Tea was pretty good. No huge complaints about that. Hi mom!

Maybe I wasn’t used to it, but the lumpia was too spicy for my taste. It had too much peppercorn. It was really the dominant flavor in the spring roll, which I didn’t enjoy. It came with a fish sauce dipping sauce. I enjoyed the makerel ceviche, but since it was made with vinegar and not citrus, I think it was less of a ceviche and more of a kinilaw. I’m sure they used the term ceviche because it’s more familiar to foreigners. You can debate how similar they are, but let’s call a spade a spade.

I think it’s unfortunate for this dish that I went to school in Boston and therefore had my share of clam chowder. The flavors in this soup were delicious. It had that familiar creamy clam taste with a hint of ginger. Strips of nori floated atop. As I was wolfing this down I realized there were no clams. No clams! Of course there weren’t any clams, because this wasn’t chowder. This was “clam-infused” soup. Damn! My New England frame of reference fooled me, tricked me into thinking that this would be a hearty soup. Still, it was delicious, but I can’t say the same for the stiff “pan de sal” bread bowl.

I was looking forward to the shrimp pomelo salad, but this wasn’t what I had in mind. I really though it was going to be a gratuitus bowl of sliced pomelos with some shrimp here an there, dressed with the sweet/sour calamsi and pungent fish sauce flavors. I thought it was going to be a flavor symphony! This was what came out. Two slices of pomelo, two small shrimp, one leaf of lettuce, and fish sauce here and there. Pure disappointment. The individual flavors of each ingredient had nothing to do with each other. I’m sure this could have been executed better. I think I’ll try it out soon.
Milkfish marinated in vinegar and garlic (Daing na Bangus), served with slated egg and tomatoes. It was good, no complaints, but my Tita Remy makes a better Daing na Bangus.
“Filipino Triolet” – also pretty good. I didn’t really like their leche flan, but the turon and suman were great. You can’t really mess up sweet sticky rice and fried bananas.
We were all given our own individual french presses for our coffee, which was nice and strong and helped with the jet lag.
The tour guide described that this was Filipino food served gourmet. “Gourmet” is a word normally associated with food of “high sophistication” or “high quality presentation.” To me, gourmet means high-quality flavor, and I did not get that at Travel Cafe Philippines. I do love the idea of having a restaurant serve as a travel agency. You can learn a lot about a culture through food. It’s a very interactive experience, and I appreciate that. But I don’t think the classic and vibrant flavors in Philippine cuisine should be dumbed down for the sake of “gourmet” or to seem more inviting to foreigners. You’re risking the integrity of not just the food, but the culture and the people! I’m also not saying that Philippine cuisine cannot be served in a sophisticated manner. It certainly can. I had an amazing lunch at Malacanang Palace that demonstrated authentic flavors and sophisticated preparation (future blog entry).
I support Travel Cafe Philippines, but please revise your menu. Give your guests what is authentic because authenticity is delicious. Give them what is true because the truth is beautiful.